Wednesday, February 27, 2008

How to add Kevlar Skid Plates

I want to add kevlar skid plates to my new/used canoe and found this great "How to".

Original found HERE.

Skid plate installation for Souris River Canoes. May or may not work with vinylester resin canoes by other companies such as Wenonah, Mad River, Bell, Novacraft, Swift, etc., due to the epoxy resin used. Because you are working with epoxy resin which is a skin sensitizer, it is recommended that you work in adequate ventilation or outside like I'm doing in the following photos. Avoid skin contact and wash off if it gets on your skin.

Skid plates need only be installed on canoes that are showing wear through about 3 layers of material. It will appear as a worn spot right where you see my hand (with the rag) in picture #2. Like rings of a tree stump, you can see the wear in your bow or stern. If you only have scratches and no real visible sign of wear into the third layer of material, you wouldn't need to have skid plates installed just yet. If, however, you wanted to purchase the skid plate set, it'll just sit on the shelf and wait for you. One final IF: If you don't slam your canoe into gravelly/rocky shores at 20 MPH trying to make the portage 6" shorter, you may never need skid plates as a private owner. Remember that both of you need to drag your paddles on opposite sides of the canoe at final approach to slow way down. Then your bow person reaches out and gently stabs shore in shallow water to absorb the final shock so you can creep up to shore. For boarding in and out of a loaded canoe without getting your feet wet, visit HERE.

If you have a question, email me:

1. Prop canoe upsidedown on two sawhorses. Sand both the bow and stern where skid plate is going to go, using a piece of 80 grit sand paper.

2. Wipe down sanded area with clean, lint free cloth. It wouldn't hurt to pour a little acetone on the rag and wipe off both sanded ends of the canoe with it.

3. Take a packet of resin, fold it in half on seam between resin and hardener. Squeeze contents down, rip off the top of both halves.

4. Pour contents of 3 packets total into clean cup. soup can, small container, etc. Avoid skin contact with the resin.

5. Mix with a stir-stick, clean popsicle stick, tree branch, etc.

6. The canoe doctor is in...
Put on disposable latex or nitrile gloves.

7. Drop into skid plate into resin.

8. Mush it around making sure that you get it completely wet with resin

9. Another mushing shot

10. Lift out of resin cup

11. Lay it on canoe, pointy end towards to the front.

12. Make sure it's centered and smooth it out with your hands. Repeat Steps 3-12 on the other end of the canoe.

13. This step is not required but will leave a nicer finish on the skid plate and make it a bit tougher since resin is drawn to the surface.

14. Stretch out plastic film (Saran wrap) over the plate so it's smooth. Remember to check the plate to ensure that it is still straight on the canoe. You can move it around under the plastic and you don't need gloves during this part.

15. Squeeze out the air bubbles that you can see trapped under the plastic. Slide them out towards the edge of the plastic.

16. Smooth it out a couple more times and then leave it alone. Come back in about 6 hours or the next day and peel off the plastic.

Finished plate under plastic wrap

Canoe touch up
and repairs

No comments: